A series of fortunate, unfortunate, or just plain funny events

Carla:

Since Audra did a great job summarizing the basic plot of the last leg of our journey, I figured I would cover the "entertaining vignette" angle and relay a few more detailed episodes:

Unfortunate event: Carrying lots of crap in one purse
Since we only have the backpacks and a purse each, anything of relative importance goes in the purse when we're in transit. Unfortunately, when you start considering the possibility of things getting stolen, everything seems a little more important.

Audra, rooting around for something in her purse: "I swear, I can't find a goddamn thing in here. How does this happen?? Everything is always under everything else! This defies the laws of physics!"

Fortunate event: Discovering the combination of a money belt underneath a dress
Money belts are always tricky because although it feels good to know that the really important stuff is right there with you, I also tend to feel incredibly conspicuous if I have to access it or if it somehow shows up when I don't want it to...like, all of a sudden everyone knows EXACTLY where all of your most important items are located...

Carla: "Oh, that's brilliant! You have the money belt under your dress! You can't even tell! Nobody's getting at that."
Audra: "Yeah...and if they are, it's probably the least of my problems."

Funny event: Trying to negotiate around the fact that you're not wearing underwear in a public place
So I guess this one takes some explaining...we had been on the road for about 24 hours and finally managed to squeeze in a shower, but of course were less than thrilled at the prospect of putting on the same pre-shower underwear...so we didn't. We were wearing long skirts, no big deal. Finally, we got to the bus platform where we decided it was about time to be normal again and put on a new pair. Just try to envision this scene:

We're sitting on the platform next to this other foreign-looking guy waiting for our bus to arrive. Audra takes this moment to decide that she will attempt to discretely put on underwear by covering herself with her fleece and maneuvering in one leg at a time. She asks me to hold her purse and sets herself up with the fleece over her lap, undies in her left hand, first leg partway through. Just then, the guy next to us decides it's the right moment to introduce himself and make traveler small-talk (where did you come from, where are you going, etc.). Since he's next to Audra, she's the one he starts chatting up. Meanwhile, I am trying to keep from busting out laughing as I watch her try to hold a conversation and finish putting a pair of underwear on less than 12 inches from the man she is conversing with. I will tell you ladies and gentleman, it was a true feat of multi-tasking.

Unfortunate event: Sunburn
Need I say much more? We spent the better part of a day frolicking in our bathing suits at these amazing dunes. Yes mom, we used sunscreen, but apparently not enough. While Audra got away with some rosy shoulders, I on the other hand have the worst burn I've had since middle school (when I refused to believe that I actually am incredibly pale)...all over my body. I'm trying not to complain too much so I'll stop there.

Unfortunate event: Mutant mosquito bites
Our first night post-Amazon adventure we went out to dinner in Belém. As mosquitoes had not been a problem prior to this, I neglected to apply bug repellant and foolishly forgot the fact that my body is a MOSQUITO MAGNET. This is a proven fact. When my dad and I go backpacking together, our bite ratio tends to be around 10:1. They love my body (can you blame them?). I ended up with about 10 bites on my legs and ankles. But these were not your typical run of the mill mosquito bites...these bites each swelled up to the size of a quarter and itched so badly they throbbed whenever I walked around (see new facebook album, coming soon). I quickly discovered that ice was the only thing that made any difference in the discomfort, so I learned how to say "can I please have a bag of ice?" in Portuguese and endured many strange looks from people who watched me rub ice cubes all over my legs in any variety of public places (restaurants, buses, you name it). Luckily those bites have gone down a bit and the brand of mosquito here in Jericoacora seem a bit more tame.

Current bite count:
Audra: 1
Carla: 15

Fortunate event: Managing to make it from Barreirinhas to Jericoacora in one day of travel
After spending a day in Barreirinhas taking in the amazing sight of the dunes and lagoons, we had to figure out how to get over to our next destination, Jericoacora. Now, the lonely planet guide describes this town as a "backpacker's haven", seaside location, plenty of outdoor activities, and rocking nightlife. Though they're not far apart, the roads between the two cities are not maintained (read: dirt path through the underbrush and accross sand dunes) and so travel can be a bit tricky.

We were faced with the choice of backtracking 4 hours to the nearest big city to catch a bus or forging ahead in the same direction by 4x4 vehicle...for a ride we were told would take 10 hours just to get to the midway point. 10 hours of riding in the back of a 4x4. I will admit, I was skeptical. But, the combination of the fact that it seemed like a shame to backtrack and Audra's adventurous spirit found us mounting up into the 4x4 with about 9 other backpackers at 9am yesterday morning with one common goal in mind: make it to Jericoacora in time to celebrate the journey with a caipirinha and some samba. We were told it couldn't be done. That the trip would take 2 days of travel at least and that we would have to waste a night in a middle of nowhere town. We would not take no for an answer. It was Jeri or bust. A synopsis of the most epic travel day of my life:
Part 1 (4x4, 9am-3pm): 6 hours in the back of a 4wd vehicle, winding through the jungle, through small rivers, over dunes, and through rural villages. This is by far the most exhilirating way to travel anywhere. Period. Though it made us a little nervous that our driver would hop out from time to time to tighten up the lug nuts on one or all of the wheels. Oh, and the fact that we stopped specifically so that he could throw back a beer. Regardless, our trusty steed managed to get us all the way to the town where we needed to catch the next bus, where it promptly broke down. We hopped out and literally ran to catch the next bus as it was pulling out of the station.
Part 2 (bus, 3pm-5pm): 2 hour bus ride to the next big town. We were feeling pretty heady at this point, given that we had wasted all of about 45 seconds in the transition between part 1 and part 2. We were on our way to glory.
Part 3 (bus, 6:30pm-9:30pm): Then we hit a snag...an hour and a half wait time between our arrival and the departure of the next bus. Some guys we were traveling with told us that arrival at Jeri tonight was unlikely...you usually couldn't find a ride in after dark because again, you had to travel by 4x4 just to get there. Our hope began to falter...
Part 4 (15-passenger van, 10pm-11:30pm): As soon as we arrived in Camocim, we were approached by a man, obviously sent by God, who told us he would drive us to the next stopping point in his 15-passenger van. 12 people, 12 backpacks, one van, one dream.
Part 5 (4x4, 11:30pm-12:30am): We rolled into the checkpoint bleary eyed and smelling of...let's just say "travel". The local tourist guides sprang into action, loading our bags into the back of a slightly less glamorous 4x4 (did you know there were glamorous ones?)...consisting of two parallel wooden benches that situated us facing each other and basically hugging our luggage. As we drove across the dirt roads and dunes under the stars, there was more than one comparison made to the experience of fugitives or refugees...refugees with ipods, that is. We finally rolled into town around 12:30am to the sound of pounding samba music. Our dream fulfilled! After a quick refresher, we hit up the town, sipping fruity mixed drinks by the beach and topped the night with an informal samba lesson at the nearest club, and finally rolling into bed around 4am. Overall, the most epic and successful day of travel of the trip, perhaps of all my travels.

Although the "unfortunates" outnumber the "fortunates" in this post, it's really not indicative of the great success this part of the trip has been so far. It's just that it's more fun (or at least funny) to read about what goes wrong than to read about what goes right, isn't it? Rest assured that there are many more things going very right. We have one more day here in Jericoacora, then we're headed south for the last few chapters of the trip, a few days in Salvador followed by a stay in Rio before heading home. Check back later today for a link to the new pictures...